Cuts and Bruises

I am assuming that my stories about surfing and waves are going to start to get boring soon, but this series of events is interesting. I will warn you that there is some blood involved(not too much though). My last entry ended on the notion that even when you stub your toe and have a bad day, good things(or waves) can still happen. I feel like that has been the story the past few days. Yesterday I paddled out with my brother in law Reggie and got a nauseating feeling when I realized the waves were a lot bigger than they looked on the beach. A couple of sets came through and I felt my jaw drop and my heart beating outside my chest. I considered paddling back in, but decided against it. The first wave I paddled for was huge and I heard a guy cheer me on, so of course I had to go on it. I dropped in and my eyes got big. I looked straight at Reggie and fell. I scrambled to get back out and paddled for the next wave. This time I made it and it was such a good wave. A little later on I got caught inside of 3 huge breaking waves. I took the first one on my head, but came out unscathed. The next one ripped my board from my hands and smacked me straight in the face. I heard a loud crack and I thought that I had broken my nose. Today I woke up with a bruised nose and eyes, not to mention a nice headache. I thought I might take today off and get some homework done. However, against my better judgment, I decided to go surfing after all. I was worried about hurting my face(particularly my nose) the whole time. I caught a couple of fun waves and then dropped into this barrelling left. I looked at this guy who was in my way and knew I wasn't going to make the section and get around him, when suddenly the lip hit me straight in the face, took me down, shot me up and through the wave to be taken back down again and held me there. When I finally came up the next wave hit me in the head(so much for avoiding my bruised nose). When I came up the guy was looking for me making sure I was alright. Luckily I didn't hurt my face more, but on my way back out I cut my leg really bad. I'm not sure how I did it, but all of a sudden blood was gushing out of my knee. Well, not really gushing until I got out of the water. In my head I was thinking about how a shark can smell a drop of blood up to a mile away, so I quickly paddled in. This is surf number three where I have gotten fun waves, but sustained injuries. We'll see what tomorrow brings I guess. I hope everyone is well and that the days are good to you. xobeck